Best Muscle Cars

1991 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback

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HELLCAT KILLER! 636 rwhp (731hp crank) and still climbing at 6500 rpm at only 16psi.

This is a restomod that is 13 years in the making being advertised for sale just as it is being completed. This car has over $57,000 in brand new parts and countless custom touches. This doesn’t include the cost of the actual car, labor, or paint and body work. There are several thousand hours in this car. To have this built you would spend well over $100,000 at any shop and would wait years for it to be completed.

I am not giving this car away. I turned down 65k while still building it. I have 6 custom built fox bodies and really don’t need them all. I will sell for the right price. Otherwise I will register and start driving it.

This build began with an absolutely gorgeous, clean title, 1991 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback with only 91,000 accident free no rust miles. This car was parked in 2003, stripped and has been meticulously crafted since. Nothing on this car was rushed and everything done was done with performance, aesthetics and quality in mind. Nothing was just “thrown” together and very little is just a bolt on.

The goal of this car was to build an all-around performance fox body that will hang with the most expensive production cars on the road course, drag strip and car show all while having daily driver manners and comforts. This car was built to be a street car not an all-out max power effort.

What does that mean exactly? Because folks have different interpretations of what a street car is, let me clarify. This is not the normal Mustang you see that is a max horsepower effort with a big cam that will have low RPM bucking issues, no torque off idle, missing Air Conditioning and heat, manual brakes or steering, overheating issues, no sway bar, inop power locks, poor cornering/braking etc. This was built to be an all-around car with every facet at a world class level… a motor with a healthy idle and exhaust note, a massive torque band, the ability to sit and idle in 100 degree weather without overheating all while keeping its passengers cool and comfortable with the choice of either listening to the music of the exhaust note or a high end quality stereo system. (not a bass monster or thumpy stereo)

That being said, all of the major systems on this car are built to handle well over a 1000 horsepower if desired in the future. The parts list is a rundown of the best of the best. The engine and transmission were blueprinted and put together by the best there is, Bennett Racing and D&D performance.


The main systems include:

· A Bennet Racing Dart block 347 Big Bore stroker good up to approx 1400hp.
· Twin Disc Mcleod Clutch rated at 1200hp.
· D&D Viper Spec T56 – D&D says they have had ridiculous power put through these without breakage.
· 8.8 rear end chopped with 9 inch big ends welded on with Strange 33 spline axles – over 1000hp.
· Glenn’s performance sleeper fuel system with twin pumps AND and Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump – good to approx. 1400+hp.

This car was parked in 2003 and completely gutted and stripped. The engine bay was smoothed as well as the antenna. Badging was removed from the fenders and smoothed. This car is a masterpiece.

Practically everything on this car is either polished, chromed, powder coated or ceramic coated. ARP stainless 12 point fasteners and AN fittings with braided steel lines were used throughout. There are probably close to a thousand dollars in just bolts in the engine bay. This is a show winning build.

A show polished Renegade double bracket with ARP stainless bolts and a 10 rib pulley system hold a new polished Vortech Ti rated up to 950hp. An Anderson Mondo bypass kit that has been chrome ceramic coated keeps heat soak oat and is paired with a polished (of course) Mondo bypass valve.

Realistically, for a street car you really don’t need more than about 600 rear wheel horsepower . This is a great power level for the street and the 60lb injectors currently in are perfect for this power level as well as tuning for street manners, start-up and idle. These older fox bodys are light compared to newer cars so it would still run away from most everything else. For example, the new Hellcat Challenger weighs a hefty 4449lbs vs 3500lbs for 91 Mustang GT. With a rule of thumb of 10hp per 100lbs a Hellcat would have to make 100hp more (831 crank) to keep up.

This car is garaged and covered, it was only test driven as part of the build tuning process to check everything functions properly and for dyno tuning. This way there is no mystery on how much power the car makes. The stock tune just won’t hack this level of modification so this car has the proven TWEECER RT piggyback tuning system. As it will be tuned you don’t have to know how to do anything except drive. However, the TWEECER RT has the ability to save 6 tunes that you can select with the turn of a knob. You could have a different tune for different boost levels, gas mileage, with or without meth injection, race fuel or pump gas…and of course a valet mode is always a good idea where you can restrict RPM to 2000, cut fuel etc to keep your car and others safe.


A full race winning suspension from Maximum Motorsports was installed. It’s practically the whole Maximum Motorsports catalog. A heavy duty Torque arm and panhard bar keep the rear axle in place while planting the tires on acceleration and reducing nose dive during braking. Powdercoated Cobra discs in the rear with integrated parking brake, slotted rotors and a coilover conversion round out the rear. Up front the car is lightened, strengthened and geometry improved with a MM K-member which has the engine set back for better weight distribution. Trick tubular adjustable A-arms allow you to place the wheels forward, aft, in or out based on your preference. The sway bar mounts were reinforced with welded in tabs before painting. Powdercoated 96 spindles hold the Agent 47 cooling ducts which cool the Brembo calipers and slotted rotors. Just attach the ducting for racing.

The notoriously noodle like Fox platform was stiffened up with full length weld-in subframe connectors with seat mounts, 4-point roll bar with harness bar, and rear shock brace.

The interior on this Mustang is stunning. By far the classiest I have ever seen in a fox body. The car originally had the titanium/black interior which was in great condition and looked good but it was removed and replaced with an original black interior from an 88,000mile LX which was completely gone through and customized. Anything that needed to be was replaced, cleaned or redyed. A new headliner was installed, the original carpet was in great shape and just cleaned. The door panels were disassembled, cleaned and resprayed with OEM dye and the middle and lower panels replaced with custom leather panels. The middle door panel is a two tiered panel(thicker on top) with supple black leather on the bottom and a perforated vinyl on the top. This ties in nicely with the dash that has the same perforated material on the dash pad. The bottom door panel gets rid of the stock plastic speaker cover and is the same black leather with a subtle flame motif around the Focal 6.5 woofer. The stock sound deadening was removed and the panels were lined with a new better than stock jute backing which is aluminum on one side for sound deadening and heat reflection. New police (one key) door and hatch locks were installed, new power locks, new Carlite ¼ windows and all door trim, front and rear (Cobra) lights, rear hatch lights, bumpers, hole covers and weather stripping. Custom door sill plates with CNC cut 5.0 symbols tie in nicely with all the polished and brushed aluminum accents. The center console boasts a new leather boot with aluminum rivets, a T56 leather handle (or a billet one if you would rather), new LEATHER parking brake handle and armrest delete. Three voltage gauges are installed where the ash tray used to be to entertain you as you watch how the electronic controller varies the voltage to the dual electric fans and water pump based on temperature.

The stock airbag steering column was pulled in favor of the more desirable tilt column out of an 89. An NRG quick release allows you to seamlessly remove the gorgeous MOMO leather steering wheel as an anti-theft measure.

This car has a custom, one of a kind rear seat delete with an integrated custom roll bar. The roll bars you can buy for these cars all bolt the main hoop down into the footwell of the rear seat. This results in the main hoop being visible, and in my opinion unsightly, whenever you open the door. The footwell is also a thin area of the floor pan… although it has proven to be up to the test in a rollover. THIS roll bar however has the main hoop up at the front corner where the rear seat sat. This is a more substantial area of the floor which is boxed in below and has less chance of the main hoop punching through. It also results in a very asthetically pleasing roll bar set-up. The roll bar is not noticeable with the doors open as it is set back behind the pillar and the down bars follow the angle of the quarter windows. This also keeps the roll bar a safer distance from your head. A harness bar curves around the seats in case you want to add 5 point harnesses in the future.

The rear seat delete was designed to look stock and elegant, adding minimal weight over the rear seat components all while housing high end stereo components. A custom stereo system was designed to fit in place of the rear seat and provide a flat surface to extend the hatchback into one large hatch area as well as hiding the bottom portion of the roll bar. You could definitely get some groceries (or a couple of sets of golf clubs) in there. To save weight the woofer enclosures were made out of fiberglass and the top panels are a composite. The entire unit is anchored to the car by the original seat belt anchors so it will not move around but you can remove it if you just had to get as light as possible for a track event. Custom carpet for the hatch was cut from some really nice plush 9400 carpet (much nicer than stock) that was bound and placed over ½’ jute backing for sound deadening. Looking at the car you wouldn’t even realize two 10” subs and a monster amp were in the car. The stereo consists of a pair of Boston 10 inch subs in the rear and Focal 6.5” components in the front. The speakers are driven by an old school Soundstream Reference 4-channel amp. If you know stereos, you know this is nice stuff. This stereo was put together for accurate audiophile sound, not so folks can hear bass from 3 miles away. Everything is controlled by a Pioneer Premier blue tooth head unit with an Ipod/Iphone interface. It has a remote control and Hands free phone as well as A2DP to stream music via Bluetooth so you could select a song from outside the car if you wished.

The rear view mirror was replaced by a high tech mirror with integrated LCD screen that will allow you to monitor and record a front facing or rear facing camera. So if you want to record passing that Porsche on track days at your favorite road course, this mirror has a hi def camera with DVR integrated into it. The rear camera is a custom install that was very time consuming to run the wiring from the mirror, into the hatch, through the wing and all the way to the third brake light where the rear camera has been inconspicuously mounted inside. The mirror is also a NAV system with GPS or you can watch videos loaded from a micro SD card. Several hundred hours were spent on the wiring on this car. Two wiring harnesses from 91 were mated so that wiring could be run through fenders and many unsightly components hid in the fenders. All wiring throughout the car was gone through and all electrical work was done correctly with connections soldered and heatshrinked. The wiring for all the aftermarket electronics was completed and integrated at the same time while the car was gutted. The diagnostic port wiring was moved into the interior of the car so codes can now be read from the drivers seat vice underhood. The Salt and Pepper 12 PIN connectors from the engine compartment that are 1) unsightly and 2) typically the cause of a myriad of electrical issues were disposed of and the computer harness and engine harness were integrated for a much cleaner appearance. Like everything else on this car, the electric fan and water pump setup is hi-tech. There are 3 Electric fans. Two low profile fans on the radiator and a 2 speed Derale in push configuration on the condenser. A controller determines the amount of voltage needed to be sent to the dual electric fans and water pump based on coolant temperature. You can watch how this works on the three voltage gauges installed where the ash tray used to reside. The 2 speed Derale is controlled by the controller on low speed but will switch to High when AC is selected on inside the car.


Wiring was properly soldered and heat shrinked. The only place connectors were used were on parts that might need to be removed in the future such as the stereo faceplate and voltmeters/indicator lights so quick disconnects were used there. Everything added on has separate fuse boxes as well, one front and one rear.

One of my favorite upgrades is the conversion of both the instrument cluster and the AC gauges to LED lighting. This makes the car so much nicer at night. (not that I’ve driven it, just sat in it with the lights off) It’s better than new and the needles really pop. Combine this with the NEXUS gauges whose color can be changed and dimmed with the remote and it’s a very modern looking interior. While the dash was out, the plastic cover on the instrument cluster was removed and polished. That took it from hazy to crystal clear.

Now for what you really care about. The engine. There’s around $20k in the engine bay. Just look through the parts list below and it’s a who’s who of the best.

The heart of the engine is a Jay Allen custom cam oriented towards daily driving and made for boost. It was designed to have a nice idle with just enough lope to let you know something is in there but provide good vacuum, impeccable daily driving manners and monstrous power and torque throughout the RPM range for those stop light to stop light sprints.

A Bennett Racing 347 big bore (4.125”) short block based on a Dart Iron Eagle block with Cometic gaskets insures the capability to handle the highest boost pressure while Flow Tech Induction smog legal AFR 185’s with upgraded Beehive springs and top of the line Jesel rockers insure no valve float at the highest RPM.

A mother-of-all show quality crankcase evac system was added to relieve the excessive pressure normally seen in stroker and boosted motors. This is essential as not having one will result in oil being sucked through the PCV valve and into the intake coating the valves with oil, reducing engine life and blowing out seals under boost. Most folks simply plug off the PCV valve and run lines to a catch can and vent the gases overboard. This can work, but with several negative effects. This system puts another check valve in-line with the PCV valve to keep boost out of the crankcase while still providing the benefit of clean oil that a PCV system provides at idle under vacuum. A 10AN fitting welded into each show polished custom valve cover provides a robust evac path under boost to two catch cans whose exhaust fumes are then fed back into the engine to be burned (as designed) instead of being poured into the engine bay and smelling up the interior.

This car was built to drive every day. The AC system has all new lines, accumulator, condenser and evaporator and was converted to R134. The AC system was completely checked. A vacuum was pulled and the system held it for 3 days no problem, so no leaks to worry about. The heater core is also new.

This beast sports a brand new set of 18×9 and 18×10 lightweight SVE Drift Wheels with new BF Goodrich 255/35/18 KDW tires on front and 275/35/18 BF Goodrich Drag Radials on the rear.

Here’s a list of most of the parts on the car.

Original 91 sheetmetal, never wrecked
Cervinis 2.5″ bolt on cowl hood
Cervinis “Saleen style” wing
Cervinis Stalker front bumper
repainted factory red,complete with engine bay and jambs, using Dupont Chromabase base/clear system

Bennett Racing built Dart Iron Eagle big bore 347 (Ross pistons, forged Scat crank and H beam rods)
Jay Allen custom cam
Ed Curtis AFR 185s w/ beehive upgrade
Cometic 4.125″ MLS HGs
Vortech Ti (polished)
Renegrade passenger side brackets (polished)
10 rib upgrade
Anderson Mondo bypass kit (ceramic coated)
polished Mondo bypass valve
Holley Systemax II w polished Hogan intake
Jesel Sportsman shaft mounts
Accufab 75MM T/B and EGR spacer (polished)
Mezeire polished alum. electric water pump w/ idler
Blueprinted Melling HV o/p
Milodon 7 qt. pan with blower drainback plug
AFR/Bassani large diameter shorties (Jet Hot coated)
ARP hardware used throughout (stainless 12 point)
ATI super damper
Snow Stage 2 Boost Cooler SNO 20010
Windage Tray MIL 81157
Timing pointer FMS M 6023 B351
95mm PMAS 60lb injectors
Aluminum Radiator CR5058
Digital 6 w 2 Stage Retard MSD 6520
Dual 11″ Electric Fan/Shroud RS2003
Racetronix Siemens 60LB injectors P?N S107FM
Custom Valve Covers w Cutout for Vortech
Energy Suspension Engine Mounts
SLP Powerflo Exhaust System SLPM31020
Tilton Super Starter
water pump and electric fan controller
Timing Set Billet Ford
TFS 21406150 5/16 pushrods
Polishing: Intake, Valve Covers, PS bracket, Tensioner, AC compressor, Vortech brackets

Mcleod blowproof bell
Mcleod dual disk “StreetTwins” clutch, 26 spline, good to 1200hp
Fiore Micro-click adjust firewall adjuster (none better)
Fiore quadrant
D&D Viper Spec T56
T56 Steel Bellhousing w machined spacer
T56 install kit
T56 speedo cable
Billet flywheel
Pro 5.0 shifter
SHD clutch fork
Dynatech aluminum driveshaft
Driveshaft safety loop

Glenn’s Performance “Sleeper” tank -10 feed, -6 return
Dual walbro 255 inline pumps
Kenne Bell Dual Boost-A-Pump
Aeromotive coarse and fine inline filters, y blocks, fittings, and pushlock hose front to rear
In tank pickup
BBRC Billet 5.0 fuel rail kit Jeg’s 002714102
Fuel Filter 10 AN 10 Micron AEI 12301
Fuel Filter 10AN 100 Micron AEI 12304
Aeromotive boost-sensitive Fuel Pressure Regulator AEI 13101
Fitting 6AN to Barb straight AER FBM1512
4 x Fitting 8AN to Barb straight AER FBM1513
4x Fitting 8AN to Barb 45deg AER FBM1523
2 x Fittings socketless AER FBM 1534
4 x ST Alum #8 Flare 1/2 AER FBM2008
2x EAR 916110ERL -10 female to 1/2 NPT
4 x -10 O ring to 10 Flare SUM 220164
Black tank cover painted
20 FT of Black hose AER FCN0620
Black Socketless hose AER FCN 1020
Billet Y block 1/2″ NPT 555-15112

Maximum Motorsports K member
MM coilovers with KYB adjustable struts
MM camber/caster plates
MM “bolt through” tie rod kit
96+ SN spindle powdercoated
Custom adjustable length control arms with poly bushings
MM aluminum steering rack bushings

Maximum Motorsports Coilovers with Bilstein shocks
MM Panhard bar (polished)
MM Heavy Duty Torque Arm
MM tubular control arms
MM full length subframe connectors

Stock 8.8 case adapted to 9″ big bearing ends (no C clips to fail) (Fox length)
33 spline Eaton Posi
33 spline Strange street axles
Rear TA girdle

Front – 2000 Cobra R 4-piston Brembos
drilled/slotted zinc-washed Brembo rotors
Rear – 94-04 Cobra powdercoated 1 piston vented rear disk setup complete with anti-moan brackets and North Racecars Fox length brackets
94-95 Cobra Master Cylinder
Stainless Braided lines Rus 693350
Brake rotors Pair EBC GD7021
Road racing brake pads HWK HB111E-610

Recaro Seats
Custom Roll bar
MOMO steering wheel
NRG quick release
89 Tilt Steering column swap
Nexus Oil Pressure gauge ATM 6453
Nexus Water Temp Gauge ATM 6455
Battery Disconnect Switch PRF 30205
Innovate Boost gauge
Nexus Fuel Pressure Gauge
Innovate Wideband gauge
Nexus Controller
Dual Gauge Pod
Soundstream Reference
Pioneer Premier/Bluetooth/Iphone control
Focal 6.5 component speakers
Custom Rear seat delete
Custom Carpet
All interior cleaned and repainted – original black interior

Taylor Rear Battery mount w/ 1 gauge cable
2 Race bearing rear end
3 Earls 985008


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